Day 23 - Milan Markets and AC Milan v Atalanta

I always heard Italians were hospitable, but Giuseppe Sapienza, AC Milan’s head of communications, and his entire staff gave me a first-hand look at just how nice and accommodating Italians are.  At the AC Milan v. Atalanta match on Saturday night they made me feel like I was the most important guest they’ve had all season (I know the season is only a month in, but the point is I felt very special). 

However, kickoff was at 8:45 so before heading to the stadium I had all day to check off some more sites and sounds around Milan including the popular Saturday markets (no churches, funerals or even weddings today).  I slept in a bit and got a late start, but eventually I made it down to the markets, both located in the Navigli area – not only does Navigli have fun nightlife, but it’s an active daytime area on the weekends as well. 

The Navigli canals during the day. It was another beautiful sunny day in Milan.

 

The canals are lined with fun shops, cafes and restaurants that are active both during the day and at night.

My first stop was the Viale Papiniano market, which sold all clothes, shoes and garments. It had a variety of name brand things on discount, but nothing really of interest for me.

The second market I visited, the Fiera di Sinigaglia market, had a bunch of fun things to play with and look at such as...

 

...this machete. I just wasn't sure I'd be able to carry it on the plane.

 

I bought this shirt at the flea market, which I thought was perfect for me.

 

I eventually stopped for lunch at Premiata Pizzeria, which was recommended by a few people and my guide book.

 

I went with the delicious salami and sausage pizza and a greek salad.

I heart Milan.

 

Seeing fans of LA teams in Milan became a common occurence as I saw these two local Milanese guys in head-to-toe Dodgers gear. I don't think they are up to date on how much the team is underperforming at the moment. I also saw a Lakers fan at the Milan match (see below).

 

On the way back to the hotel I strolled through a few of the more discreet and lesser known shopping streets – I couldn't afford the fancy fashion in the main areas, but I read about a few side streets with more affordable gifts and clothes.  After a few purchases I made it back to the hotel to get changed for the big game night.

Shop owners often bring their dogs to work including this little pup who was doing a bit of people watching.

 

 

Although it was a late kickoff, I headed to the stadium early because Giuseppe mentioned I’d be a guest at a special VIP reception.  I got to the stadium around 7:30 and checked in at the media window.  Nicco, one of Giuseppe’s staff was there to welcome me and walk me to the reception and give me a brief tour of the area.  The all-you-can-eat-and-drink reception is open before the game, at halftime and post-game for team sponsors, players' family and friends, special guests, and somehow me.  It was held in a field-level entertainment area just overlooking the team benches. 

San Siro was originally built in 1925 and received renovations in 1956 and 1989. It seats 80k and is home to both AC Milan and rival Inter Milan. It'd be like if the Yankees and Red Sox played in the same city and in the same stadium...tough to imagine.

The field view from the VIP reception area just over the team benches.

The reception had a full spread of good eats and drinks.

Go Lakers! I think after I took a photo with this guy people actually thought he was a Lakers player.

 

 

After I filled up on some delicious pork, broccoli and some sort of rice dish, as well as some wine and champagne, it was time to head to my seats.  AC Milan is currently fifth in the league and by far one of the best teams in Italy, but they are off to a slow start.  Atalanta is at the bottom of the standings and normally fight to stay in the top division, so it should have been an easy match for Milan.

Milan fans were loud and proud and full of chants and cheers throughout the match.

The view from my seats just above the reception area. I was front row at about the "35 yard line."

 

AC Milan dominated the first half but weren't able to put the ball in the back of the net.  Halftime score was 0-0.

 

Atalanta scored in the second half which put a chill through the home crowd.

You know you're in Italy when the stadium vendors grab a couple empty seats and take a cigarette break in the middle of the game. Smoking was completely allowed, not just in the stadium, but in the seats as well.

 

You also know it's Italy when at halftime you have an espresso instead of a beer.

 

It was a back and forth match, but in the end Atalanta was able to pull off the big upset.  For Milan to lose to the second to last place team at home was a stunning result.  After the match, I met back up with Nikko and he brought me to the press conference room where I was able to see the coaches answer questions from the press.  I also was able to meet up with Giuseppe at that point and he asked me to tag along with him as he walked the Milan coach to the remainder of the post-game media interviews. 

AC Milan head coach Massimiliano Allegri and head of Communications Giuseppi Sapienza at the post-game press conference.

Giuseppe wanted me to follow him and Coach Allegri around as they did post-game press...it's a bit blurry but that's because we were on the move.

It really is fascinating to see how much press the managers of these top clubs have to do.  Coach Allegri had to do two interviews immediately after the final whistle, then after a brief locker room chat with the team, he came upstairs to do one-on-one interviews with two additional TV crews, then he jumped into the press conference for 20-minutes and answered questions.  He was only half done at this point.  He then did one more TV interview upstairs and then walked downstairs to do 20-minutes of interviews in the mixed zone area with more TV and print reporters.  That’s about two hours of post-game press interviews, which he has to do for every game.

 

Coach Allegri in the media mixed zone area doing even more interviews.

 

Meanwhile, I was tagging along snapping photos along the way.  Giuseppe and Nikko introduced me to most of the security and they let me have free run of the place so I checked out the locker room, the mixed zone and wherever else seemed interesting.  Finally around midnight it was time to call it a night.  To cap off the special-guest treatment, Giuseppe insisted on giving me a ride back to my hotel instead of taking the 30-minute metro ride.  I love Italians.  However, Giuseppe said it’s a southern Italian thing to be so welcoming and kind; the northerners are a little tougher…I guess ‘southern hospitality’ applies to Italians as well.

Look at all of my sponsors.

Hanging in the Milan locker room after the game...and well after the players had gone home.

Of course there's an expresso machine in the Milan locker room.

Another amazing match day experience.  Tough loss for the home team, but a great night otherwise.  Huge thanks to Giuseppe and his staff for the tremendous hospitality. 

Sunday is a travel day.  I'll be taking the two-hour train ride from Milan to Florence and then a shorter 20-minute train to the city of Vinci, home to Villa Dianella.