Day 22 - Crashing A Funeral, Then Feasting On Another Michelin-Starred Meal

I crashed a funeral today.  And not just any funeral, it was for a Dominican Order priest named Padre Luigi, at least that’s what I gathered from the two-hour all-Italian memorial service that I sat through.  And it wasn’t just at any church; it was Santa Maria delle Grazie, home to Leonardo da Vinci’s “Last Supper” masterpiece.  But let me start from the beginning.

 

In mid-August when I started planning this Euro trip and I knew Milan was one of the cities I'd be visiting, I started looking into what I needed to do in order to see the Last Supper.  I discovered that in order to see it I needed to schedule an appointment and buy tickets months in advance.  I tried, but since I planned this trip in four days, I was way too late; their schedule was booked until October. 

 

However, when I arrived in Milan I figured I still needed to go see the Santa Maria delle Grazie church where the mosaic masterpiece is housed.  It’s only about a five minute walk from the city center so it wasn’t out of the way.  I figured I’d snap a few photos and possibly ask about tickets, but fully expect them to laugh in my face.  

Santa Maria delle Grazie in Milan, Italy - home of Leonardo da Vinci's "Last Supper."

On Friday when I walked up to the church I noticed an older man at the door directing tourists away.  I inquired with the older gentlemen myself and in Italian he said (I think) the church is closed for three hours.  He didn’t say why, or maybe he did, but I missed that part.  It was already 3pm and I didn’t want to hang at this church for that long just to get a glimpse inside, especially with no guarantee, in fact, a very slim chance to even see the Last Supper anyway.  I had other stuff to see and do.  But, while another tourist distracted the elderly man with another question I slowly and quietly slipped into the church.  I thought I had the system beat; I figured I could walk back to the area where the Last Supper was, have a quick gander and be on my way - no ticket, no line, no problem.  However, as soon as I walked in, I noticed it was silent, people had filled the pews at the front and there was a general somberness to the room…I had walked in on a funeral. 

 

It hadn’t started yet.  People were still gathering and finding their seats.  But there I was in a v-neck t-shirt (at least it was black), shorts, vans and carrying a Top 10 Things to See in Milan guide book…a priest’s funeral was not on the list.  I was sticking to my plan: head to the area where I thought the painting was, take a look and walk out.  I had read it was in the back left on the wall so that’s where I headed. I didn’t make eye contact with anyone; just kept my head down and acted like I belonged there.  I finally made it to a glassed off area and I thought this is for sure the spot.  I looked around, walked a little further, and came upon a separate room.  I was at the doorstep to one of the world’s most iconic pieces of art and I was all by myself...amazing!  I opened the door slowly not knowing what to expect and when I peeked my head in staring back at me were a dozen priests drapped in white and purple robes all with the most shocked and awed expressions I've ever seen...I'm sure I looked the same.  I had walked into the priests’ chambers while they were preparing for the funeral ceremony.  Unbelievable.  It was like I walked in on the actual Papal conclave.  I pivoted so fast and walked like one of those competitive Olympic walkers out of the glass area and directly back to the main area of the church.

 

I sat down in one of the pews in the back away from the friends and family to regroup and process what just happened.  I had to rethink my strategy.  However, as soon as I sat down the organ started playing and all of a sudden they were bringing in the casket.  I couldn’t stand up and walk out now.  It would be so obvious and extremely disrespectful.  I was stuck.  I was in it for the long haul and I’ve been to a Catholic service before, they are a LONG HAUL…up, down, up, down, readings, songs, etc.– it’s a full experience.  I was in way over my head.

My view from the back pews...who takes pictures at a funeral? Apparently, I do.

 

 

After about an hour and a half service where I prayed several times, faked like I knew what I was supposed to say a bunch, knelt for a little bit, did several father-son-holy-spirit movements, fell asleep for a good 10 minutes, and even shook hands with the people next to me during the part where you’re supposed to “bless your neighbor” or whatever, the service finally ended.  I drew the line at going up to drink the wine and eat the bread – I just couldn’t do that in shorts, but if I had pants on I would have been up there standing and crying in line with the rest of the Luigi family.

RIP Padre Luigi.

 

 

After the casket and all the priests went down the main aisle and loaded the late Padre Luigi into the hearse it was finally time to see Da Vinci’s master mosaic – it had been two hours or so since I snuck by the old man at the church entrance.  I walked to the area where I thought it was – the same area as when I walked in on the priests’ pre-game festivities – and a nice old lady told me the Last Supper is in the building next door in the church’s dining hall.  I wasn't even in the right building this whole time.  Serves me right.  I thought I was being sneaky and outsmarting all the other tourists by bypassing the month lead time reservation, and by lasting through an entire funeral service in order to have the inside track to see the famous art work.  I guess it was God’s – and Padre Luigi’s – way of making me go to church. 

 

This story does have a happy ending.  After making my way outside the church and over to the refectory, or dining hall, where the actual Last Supper was located, I inquired with the ticket office and they had an opening.  Thank God…and thank Padre Luigi.  I purchased a $10 ticket and waited an additional 45 minutes, during which I contemplated how moronic I was that I thought I could just walk in all by myself with no ticket, no guide and no security and check out one of the most famous and most visited art works of all time.  When I finally was able to make my way into the proper building to see the magical mosaic they had to scan my ticket, then a guide walked us through two separate bombproof security chambers (seriously; they were installed after WWII), and then finally me and about two dozen other googly eyed tourists stared at the famous wall for five minutes and then we were ushered out - that sounds more like it.  So, after nearly three and half hours, I finally accomplished what I came to do.  It took awhile, but it was all worth it in the end.

No photos were allowed of the actual mosaic, but this is a poster outside in the gift shop.

 

 

 

Mind you this Last Supper escapade was only half of my day.  The first half consisted of window shopping on a few of Milan's world-renowned high-end shopping streets, visiting Milan's massive Duomo cathedral, walking around the Castello Sforzesco, and strolling the gardens and meadows of Parco Sempione, all of which did make it into the Top 10 Things to See in Milan guide book. 

Milan's Duomo, which took almost 430 years to build, anchors the city center plaza.  It is the world's third largest church and features 3,500 exterior statues.

Maybe it's just me, but I think we should draw the line at having billboards on churches. It just didn't feel right.

 

The inside of the Duomo. This massive structure is supported by 52 columns such as these ones.

 

Castello Sforzesco, which was once the home to Milan's royalty, is now an art museum featuring works from Michelangelo, Bellini and many other Italian artists and sculptors.

 

Friday was a beutiful sunny day in Milan, perfect for a walk around Parco Sempione. It is situated right in the center of town, not far from the Duomo and castle.

Walking around the city I was able to enjoy a variety of old and new Italian architecture.

There are four or five main shopping streets spread out around Milan, all of which have branches of the high-end fashion brands.

Prada, D&G, Armani, Fendi, Cavalli are just a few of the names that you see on store fronts around Milan.

 

Nothing says high fashion like Foot Locker.

 

 

My night time festivities included strolling the Navigli area of Milan, a canal-lined area that has become the hub of the city's nightlife.   I hadn't done any research on specific spots or restaurants, so I just planned to walk the streets until I saw a place that looked cool and had a good crowd.
 

Yep, I have my sweater tied around my neck...I think I've been in Europe too long, however, only start to worry when I start wearing cut-off jean shorts and smoking cigarettes.

 

The canals of the Navigli district.

 

 

My first stop was a cocktail bar called MAG.   It had a speakeasy feel to it.  It had a healthy list of specialty drinks, a bunch of fresh ingredients lined up on the bar, and the bartenders were styled out in old-school bar service attire (plus, I think one bartender had a mustache).  The bar's tables outside on the canal were full, which was a good sign. 

 

Marco, the cocktail maestro, whipped me up a delicious Manhattan to start.  We got to talking and I mentioned I was from LA, which was of interest because he is a competitive bartender and he's heard of the bartending scene in LA. He said he had a cocktail competition on Monday and I asked if he'd make me what he planned to serve. He agreed but warned me it might be expensive...12 euros! I smiled and told him 12 euros ($15) is what we spend on drinks in LA every night.

 

The cocktail, which includes six ingredients with Japanese whisky as the focal point, was originally called the "Japanese Tiger," but we later renamed it "Japense Jaguar" because the taste is long and elegant like a jaguar, not aggressive and fierce like a tiger. The drink was smooth with a hint of coffee and chocolate. Very good.

 

Before the "Japenese Jaguar" is served it is lit on fire.

 

The drink is served with two delicious chocolate-covered roasted prunes.

 

The MAG gentlemen at work (yep, the one guy definitely has a mustache).  Great drinks, nice people.  Good first stop.

 

 

 

As I mentioned, I didn't do any research on bars or restaurants so I asked the bartenders at MAG where I should eat.  They quickly recommended Al Pont de Ferr just down the street.  It is an osteria serving Milanese food, but with a serious innovative twist.  Chef Matias Perdomo is from Uruguay so there is a Latin influence as well.  Oh, and after I finished my meal, the waiter noitified me that the chef/restaurant have a Michelin star...I think that makes three Michelin star restaurants that I've tried on this trip.

 

Pont de Ferr has a very tavern-like feel. No fancy white tablecloths or expensive furniture. It has exposed brick walls, shelves of wine, and crooked tables covered with paper place mats.

 

So much for the simple basket of bread. They served bread from all over Italy including sweet bread from Naples, multi-grain bread from Tuscany and several others.

 

My meal started with a candied version of a red onion filled with creamy goat cheese. The red exterior that looked like a red onion was actually a thin candied shell and the black "dirt" was ground up rice, garlic and seasonings.

 

The second course was octopus, potatoes and chorizo, however, the deception is that the pink oval-shaped things that look like octopus are actually the potatoes with the octopus suckers reattched. The white medallions around the outside is the octopus and the orange sauce is a chorizo sauce. This was really delicious - the chorizo sauce was spectacular.

 

Speaking of spectacular, this is their take on lasagna. Thin fresh pasta squares with small beef and pork meatballs covered in parmesan shavings and a creamy cheese sauce.

 

This is cotoletta, or veal breaded cutlet, that is the signature dish of Milan. However, normally it is served flattened, fully breaded and fried like a German schnitzel. In this case they roasted it and then breaded and fried only the top. It was served alongside red cabbage in a light tuna sauce.

 

This is not my missing lego set, this is dessert. Each "lego block" was a different flavor of sorbet or frozen jello. The little guys are made of chocolate and the white snow-looking things are coconut shavings.

It was a great meal all around, especially considering I just stumbled upon the place.  I couldn't have selected a better dinner spot if I did days of research.  One of the best parts of the meal, which I'm finding is true with Michelin starred restaurants, was how nice, personable and knowledgeable the staff was.  I had two waiters, one who spoke perfect English and one who was still working on it but was still easy to understand.  Both were super nice and talked to me about the restaurant and its philosophy. They even gave me restaurant recommendations for my time in Florence.  Good times all around. 

 

Friday was an action-packed first day in Milan.  The only way to top it is with a game day!  Saturday is AC Milan v. Atalanta in a Serie A (Italian league) clash.  Kickoff is 8:45pm so I have all day to explore the Saturday markets and feast on some more Italian cuisine before heading to San Siro, the most iconic stadium in Italian football.