Day 5 – Exploring Glasgow: University, Bagpipes & Tartans

My first full day in Glasgow was spent exploring some of the traditions and staples of Scotland.  I first made my way to the west end of town to Kelvingrove Park and the University of Glasgow.  Scotland is home to some of the most famous writers, intellectuals, artists and inventors in history including Adam Smith (political economy), Adam Ferguson (modern sociology), Robert Burns (literature), Arthur Conan Doyle (writer, Sherlock Holmes stories), Alexander Graham Bell (inventor, telephone), John Logie Baird (inventor, television), Sir James Dewar (inventor, the thermos…my personal favorite), Irvine Welsh (novelist, Trainspotting) and, of course, JK Rowling (novelist, Harry Potter series…my real personal favorite).  Not that all of them attended university in Scotland, but many of the current professors, lectures and teachers use their home-grown talent and their successful endeavors as topics and subjects for their classes.  The University of Glasgow, established in 1451, combines old traditional Scottish architecture with new modern structures.  The iconic building on campus is the Sir George Gilbert Scott building with a magnificent tower and spire that can be seen from miles around.  The campus sits on top of Kelvingrove Park allowing for a variety of beautiful city views. 

Sir George Gilbert Scott building, the iconic structure of the University of Glasgow, as seen from Kelvingrove Park.

Sir George Gilbert Scott building up close.

Sir George Gilbert Scott building up REALLY close.

Inside one of the building's chambers

Interior design.

Courtyard at the University of Glasgow

View of Kelvingrove Park from the Sir George Gilbert Scott building.

Down the street from the university is the West End area, a popular part of town with cafes, restaurants and shops. This building housed several of the more popular spots.

Within Kelvingrove Park was a skate park.

 

 

After lunch at the university cafeteria and a tour through the fitness fields and facilities, I walked back into the city center to learn the history of Scottish bagpipes.  In 1996, the Piping Centre was opened in the heart of Glasgow as a way to promote the study and history of piping in Scotland.  I took a brief tour of the National Museum of Piping, which lasted all of 15 minutes, but I didn’t feel like I got my full fix of bagpipe lore.  I knew the Piping Center hosted classes and lectures, so I inquired about one-on-one lessons.  They said they could do an hour lesson for 23 pounds…sold!  However, I definitely didn’t need an hour; more like 15-20 minutes.  I just wanted to get some basics, learn a few notes and be on with it.  I made an appointment for 3pm (it was 2:15 at the time). 

I went to the pub across the street to wet my whistle and came back 45 minutes later ready to blow some pipes!  Upon my return I was introduced to my instructor, Chris Armstrong and we made our way to the lesson room.  Not surprisingly they don't start you off on the full bagpipe gizmo with the multiple pipes and the little bag.  Instead they give you a little plastic flute-looking thing called a "chanter."  You practice on this thing for six months (if you really struggle you'll be on this for as much as two years).  As expected, I was terrible, but I definitely had fun.  After about a 20-minute one-on-one lesson and a brief walk around the facility, I said my thanks and good bye.  What I came to find out from the nice girl at the centre's front desk was that my instructor Chris is a world-class bagpipe player who just got second place in last week’s World Pipe Band Championships.  He’s the "Pipe Major" (band leader) of the Scottish Power Pipe Band.  He also just came out with his second album of original bagpipe music.  Basically, I got a one-on-one lesson from one of the best bagpipe players in the world and I didn’t even know it.  It'd be like coming to Los Angeles and walking into Dodgers Stadium to learn about baseball and Matt Kemp is around to give you a hitting lesson.  Pretty amazing.  Here's Chris' site: www.ChrisArmstrongMusic.com. 

The front of the Piping Centre.

Exhibits at the National Museum of Piping.

More displays at the National Museum of Piping.

My lesson room...

Me and my chanter...I first had to learn the finger positioning...

Then I had to learn a few notes...this was as far as I got.

Walking around the facilities allowed me to see some more advanced students such as this guy who was working on how to better control the amount of air in the bag.

My instructor and world-class pipe player Chris Armstrong.

Once I recovered from being light headed from all the air I was blowing, I went to the Gallery of Modern Art (aka GoMA) to get a fix of new-age Scottish culture.  I’m not one to criticize, but I was less than impressed with GoMA.  I did a quick walk through the four-story building and decided my time would be better spent shopping.  My shopping spree was far from traditional though.  I was on the hunt for something more Scottish, something with heritage…a Logan family tartan!  My middle name, also my grandmother’s maiden name, is Logan.  Logan is a Scottish clan that dates back to the 13th century and we have our own plaid pattern and family crest.  While in Scotland I was hoping to get a blanket, scarf or anything with the Logan family plaid pattern or crest.  I bounced around a few stores and was able to find two items – first was a Logan family crest pin which is identified by a passion nail piercing a human heart and the heraldic motto HOC MAJORUM VIRTUS, which translates to "this is valour of my ancestors." The second was a shoulder throw with the Logan plaid pattern (it can be used as a scarf)…mission accomplished (however, I’d still like to get a blanket).  Also, on my shopping route I ran into the Celtic FC team shop and loaded up on team gear for the big match on Wednesday. 

The front facade of the Gallety of Modern Art.

Buchanan street, one of Glasgow's best shopping streets.

I found a book with a brief history of the Logan clan and it's tartan. 

The Logan Clan crest with the passion nail piercing a heart.

Logan tartan!

Celtic FC team store.

Inside the Celtic FC team store.

 

With a bit of Scottish heritage under my belt it is time to focus on what I came to Glasgow for, CELTIC football!  Wednesday is sports day in Glasgow.  I’ve got a tee time at 10am at a course just outside Glasgow called Haggs Castle and Wednesday evening is the big Champions League soccer match between Celtic FC and Helsingborgs of Sweden (7:45pm kickoff).  Go Celts! 

Day 4 - Good Bye England, Hello Scotland!

Monday was a well-needed relaxing travel day.  I took the 9:30am train from London Euston station to Glasgow Central.  It was about 4.5 hours, which flew by because of a brief nap and a movie on the iPad. 

I tried to capture photos of the beautiful English country side, but when you're on a fast-moving train in the rain all you really end up with is blurry green blobs as seen through rain-splattered windows.  None the less, here's what I got. 

Virgin Trains first-class lounge - first-class tickets were only an extra $10-15.

My cross-country chariot.

The first-class quiet zone cabin = good nap time.

The English countryside had lots of green pastures filled with cows and sheep, but you'll have to take my word for it because you definitely can't see any cows or sheep in this photo.

There were also photoesque country cottages along the way.

Cottages were few and far between, but the ones we did see were exactly how'd you imagine a traditional English-style country cottage to look.

This is supposed to be a small river or creek with rich green grass on either side.

I was welcomed to Glasgow in traditional fashion...with rain!  As expected, Glasgow is gray and rainy, but it's not too cold.  I checked into the Best Western in the City Center, which feels like a luxury establishment compared to my London digs.  My room is twice the size so I'm not pinballing off the walls when I put on my shoes and pants anymore.  I walked around town to get the site seeing started.  There is lots of history in this city so I wanted to get started early. 

Even the Best Western is located in a historic-looking building.

The City Chambers building is the dominating structure of George Square, Glasgow's center plaza.

 

Argyle Street is Glasgow's premiere shopping destination with boutique stores as well as big chains such as Hugo Boss, Chanel, H&M, Nike, Aldo and more. 

 

18th Century buildings line just about every street of downtown Glasgow.

More city views of Glasgow.

After I had my fill of 17th and 18th century architecture and statues, I decided to grab a bite to eat and I stumbled upon The Butterfly and The Pig.  What a great find.  It describes itself as a welcoming, shabby chic, vintage country kitchen that focuses on making basic foods, delicious and well presented.  The menu is changed daily based on the available ingredients.  I ordered the carrot and lentil soup, roasted sweet potato salad tossed with goat cheese (served warm) and an entree of traditional bangers and mash...when in Rome, right?!  Everything was fresh, tasty and filling, a perfect meal for a cool rainy day in Glasgow.

The modest entry to The Butterfly and The Pig.

 

Roasted sweet potato salad tossed in goat cheese (served warm) and the Carrot and lentil soup.

 

 Three bangers on a mound of rich mashed potatoes and smothered in delicious gravy.

Tuesday will be spent exploring Glasgow, which means I'll be seeing more historic sites as well as some of the fun revamped parts of town.

Day 3 - A Surprise Street Fair for the Ages

The match on Saturday and the night time celebrations wore me out a bit, so I was planning to spend Sunday relaxing and enjoying the sunshine from a small cafe in London.  However,  things didn't go according to plan.  I was informed that the Notting Hill Carnival, an annual celebration of Carribean culture was taking place on Sunday and it was an event I shouldn't miss.  I figured it couldn't hurt to make my way up the road to at least have a look. 

Around 2pm I jumped on the tube (subway) and headed to Notting Hill and when I walked out of the station I was immediately entrenched in the crowds of people eating, drinking, singing, and dancing.  It was a MASSIVE block party in the streets of one of London's most famous suburbs.  It reminded me of Manhattan Beach's 6-man volleyball tournament on major steroids.  The police issued a statement saying they anticipated more than a million people in the streets of Notting Hill and the surrounding neighborhoods, and I think the number easily exceeded that amount.  Every street you looked down or walked up were packed with a sea of people.  Young and old, local and foreign, there were people of all types dancing, hugging and partying in the streets.  There were even "floats," but not like Rose Parade floats with serious design and decor; these floats were just big trucks with a DJ and a guy with a microphone and about 16 speakers on the back.  The trucks drove around and occasionaly stopped and people followed and danced behind them.  It wasn't the most eloquent of parades, but that was the last thing on people's minds. 

The scene as you exited the tube station.

 

Endless sea of people in the streets.

 

People enjoying Carnival.

 

Calypso marching band parading through the streets of Notting Hill.

 

Drummer boy.

 

Dancing painted people.

 

More parade float decor.

 

A Jamaican parade float.

Each of the 'floats' were well-equipped with a concert-size sound system blaring reggae, dance, and all sorts of music.

Since there weren't enough 'floats' to fill all the streets, some areas just had stacks of speakers set up playing music.

People taking a break in the park.

Youngins getting in on the Carnival vibe

 Lots of colors.

 

 

Every restaurant, bar and shop were selling tall-boy beers - mainly Red Stripe - from their front steps for $3 and with the drinking age in London being 18 you can imagine what the scene was like.  Cops were completely laid back and let the fine youth of the UK go about boozing and chanting in the streets.  It was a blast to say the least.  

 

Simple menu options.

 

Hooray beer!

 

Red Stripe tall boys were being sold on every corner for 2 pounds, which is about $3.

UK youth with a Budweiser.

 

I'm pretty sure I freaked this girl out when I asked to take a photo with her and chanted U-S-A! U-S-A! 

 

 

Toward the end of the day I decided to leave the streets and jump into a bar called The Earl of Portobello.

Making friends - Liz and Bernie were a couple Aussies living in London.

The DJ was repping the Cincinnati Reds...ain't That Shit Cray!

 

 

The dancing and drinking was fun, but the food was the star of the event.  I tried to sample as much as possible.  I had jerk chicken, jerk pork, some sort of meat patty, a bunch of fried dumpling things, grilled corn, a few rum punch concoctions and some sort of Indian curry meat dish the locals called Mutton - apparently Mutton is a lamb stew over rice, but I only learned that just now after I Googled it.  It's like a beef stroganoff, but with rice.  It tastes a lot better than it looks. 

The jerk chicken stand I stopped by was run by a family-owned Jamaican catering company...these are the two sons who were manning the grill.

 

This is mom and the two aunts, they took the orders and managed the cash box as well as served the rice, peas and salad.

 

The grill in action...

 

Jerk chicken...

 

Just about finished.

Eating time...Jerk chicken with rice and "peas" (peas = beans), and a fried dumpling.

Spacious curb-side seating - Good eats!

Mutton - An Indian stroganoff-type dish with lamb

 

To end the evening I enjoyed some jerk pork with rice & peas and a mini salad.

 

This young man was whipping up some delicious grilled corn so I got one of those also.

 Grilled corn smothered in butter.

 

 

In total, I spent about eight hours at this street Carnival affair so this was basically my entire Sunday. It could have been enough for a whole weekend.

On Monday morning I take the 4hr train ride from London to Glasgow, Scotland where I'll be for four days diving into the history and culture of the Scots...oh, and I'm going to Celtic Football Club's match on Wednesday. Go Celts!