Saturday, October 26, 2013

Day 3 - Fly Lima to Cusco, Fighting Altitude Sickness

Hello All - We're back up and running. We weren't able to upload photos while in Cusco and Machu Picchu and since we know the photos are the best part, we decided to hold off until we were fully functional. 

Anyway, where were we...ah, right, Greg and I were wrapping up the first leg of the trip in Lima and about to fly out to Cusco....

Denver, Colorado is 5,690 feet above sea level at its highest point and considered one of the highest major cities in the U.S.  A few years ago when I visited Breckenridge, a ski town outside of Denver that sits at 9,600 feet, I suffered altitude sickness with headaches, vomiting and overall discomfort. 

Cusco, Peru, where we flew to on Monday nearly doubles the altitude of Denver at approximately 11,156 feet. So, according to my calculations, I'm fucked! Both Greg and I procured some altitude pills in Lima and have been popping those every 6-8hrs, so we shall see.

Our flight was at 10am and we landed in Cusco around 11:15am. We checked into our hacienda style hotel in the heart of town and sorted out our Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu tour for Wednesday and Thursday. Once we were set, we headed out to explore Cusco. 


Flight 809 from Lima to Cusco.

Cusco from above.

A guy at the baggage claim area had a sign with my name on it...I'm a big deal in Cusco.


Greg outside of Hotel Marqueses, our humble abode while in Cusco.

It was a traditional Spanish style hotel with a cobble stone patio and the rooms around the outside.

Cusco was the capital of the Incan civilization for over two centuries (1400s, 1500s and some 1600s) and served as the dynasty's administrative, religious and military hub. It sits in the heart of the Sacred Valley making it the ideal central location for Incas from all over the region to meet, trade, and worship. It continues to serve as a cultural thoroughfare today as travelers from all over Peru, South America and the world come to experience the Incan homeland. 

By far the most beautiful aspect of Cusco is its 16th and 17th century architecture. From the main cathedral to the museums to the plazas, they are all so big, sturdy and beautifully designed. In fact, in the 1600s the Spanish arrived and built a wide variety of their own structures along side or on top of the existing Incan buildings, but in the earthquake of 1650 most of the Spanish buildings were heavily damaged while the Incan foundations remained in tact. 


The Cusco Cathedral is at the center of town on the east side of the main plaza, Plaza de Armas.

The Cathedral was renovated from 1997-2002.

The Cathedral pays tribute to Renaissance on the outside and Baroque on the inside.

A view of Plaza de Armas which is the main square in Cusco.

Like Lima, Cusco is filled with color all over the city; Greg also adds a bit of color to any city he visits.

For some reason, Irish pubs are a universal concept in cities around the world. No matter what city - big or small - you visit, you're guaranteed to find a pub with the name O'Malley's, O'Brian's, Malloy's, etc. They may not be the most authentic, but they serve cold beer and traditional tasty bar food. With that said we bounced into one of Cusco's Irish joints called Paddy's Pub (unfortunately Dennis, Mac and Charlie weren't working).  We were going for a drink, but found ourselves in the midst of a crowd of soccer fans watching Champions League matches...perfect.


Paddy's Pub touts itself as the highest Irish-owned pub in the world.

Footie watching at Paddy's; it was really cool because there were fans from all over the world there watching and cheering on their teams, it was kind of a mini World Cup vibe.

Once the final whistle blew, we were back to the streets to continue our Cusco exploration. We popped in and out of shops, all of which were selling pretty much the same souvenir trinkets.

Night time rolled around and we ventured out to find a dinner spot and perhaps some extra curricular activities. We stumbled upon a cozy back-alley place called Kushka...Fe. It had seven tables and a small bar and the menu was predominantly traditional Peruvian, which is exactly what we were looking for.


Cusco at night; houses line the surrounding mountains making for a beautiful night time view.

The streets of Cusco are mostly cobble stone giving it that colonial look and feel.

On our hunt for dinner we came across a Cusco food truck, but opted to skip it this time.

Greg went with the Pollo Saltado, which is a stir fry of meat, onions, rice, potatoes, and more.

I went with Alpaca steak in a stroganoff-style mushroom sauce.

Kushka...Fe was a great find in the back streets of Cusco and filled us up.

After dinner we jumped back to Paddy's for drinks - Cusco is small, so everything is within walking distance. Paddy's was lively with patrons including a group fresh off a four-day Inca Trail hike. We made friends with them pretty quickly as they were eager to share their hiking battle stories with anyone willing to listen. The group included Irish, English, Aussies, and Canadians - pretty much every English country except the U.S. - so we rounded out the bunch. After some beer boat races, lots of laughs, and exchanging of email addresses, we shut the bar down and went our separate ways. 

The Paddy's Pub group.

On Wednesday we hit the trails on a 3-day, 2-night Sacred Valley and Machu Picchu tour. It's time to get out our hiking shoes and walking sticks and see just how out of shape we are. 



Monday, October 21, 2013

Day 2 - Lima Time! Skulls, Cliffs, & Duck

Lima is a colorful city in many ways. It's filled with a wide variety of painted walls, houses, doors, and sidewalks making it literally a colorful city. It's like walking through a coloring book. Then you have the green trees, hazel and grey sky, yellow, pink and red flower beds, and of course the blue ocean. Perhaps the most colorful aspect of the city is the people.  They come from a wide variety of backgrounds. There is the obvious influence of the Incas and the Spanish, but do to its location on the Pacific coast, there is also heavy influences from Asia.  The result is a vibrant city filled with an equally beautiful population.

Colorful doors can be found throughout the city.

City walls give the city a vivacious appeal.

Mas colores de la ciudad.

We managed to wake up at a reasonable hour on Monday (10am), which allowed for a full day of Lima Time! Greg and I spent the early afternoon further exploring Miraflores, the commercial hub of Lima with shopping areas, art galleries, cafes, parks, churches, museums, and the beautiful cliff-side walking path.

The seaside cliffs are one of Lima's most popular outdoor destinations and with views like this, you can see why. This a view from Larcomar, the shopping area that is built into the side of the cliffs.

Iglesia de la Virgin Milagrosa (Church of the Miraculous Virgin) dates back to 1939...and I thought I was on a dry spell.

Parque Kennedy (as in JFK) is filled with arts & crafts vendors, food booths, and couples dancing to local music.


Lima's streets are flanked by Colonial mansions, pre-Inca ruins, historic churches, and museums full of treasures. Perhaps the most recognizable is the yellow and white Colonial Monastery of San Francisco

San Francisco's facade is one of the best examples of 17th-century Baroque architecture in Peru.

The massive doors to the main chapel.

A look at the vaulted ceilings of San Francisco's main chapel.

Greg walking through the tight walls of the eerie catacombs underneath San Francisco.

The catacombs of San Francisco still have bones of  the many who were buried there back in the Colonial period. 

Greg outside of San Francisco trying to avoid being covered in guano (a prime commodity for the Peruvian culture in the 19th  century).

Matt lending a helping hand to the local law enforcement.


After our trip to the city center, we had the pleasure of experiencing a real Peruvian rush hour on our way back to Barranco.  Once we finally made it home, we cleaned up and headed out to dinner.  Tonight's culinary destination was Fiesta, a restaurant that originated in the northern city of Chiclayo and made it's way south to Lima a few years ago.

Matt getting ready to feast at Fiesta.

Peru's signature drink is the Pisco Sour. Pisco is a local alcohol that is a bit like cachaza in Brazil or rum in the Caribbean.

Grilled ceviche with fried potatoes.

Grouper tenderloin with Tacu-Tacu (Peruvian rice and beans).

Arroz con Pato (Rice with Duck) is a traditional northern Chiclayana dish that has made its way on to menus throughout Peru.

It was a complete day in Lima. We enjoyed the outdoors, did some site seeing, explored some ruins, and feasted on another great meal. On Tuesday, we take an hour and a half flight from Lima to Cusco, the picturesque town in the Andes that acts as the first gateway to Machu Picchu.  We are spending two days in Cusco then heading to Machu Picchu for a day and then coming back to Cusco for a fun night on Friday. 

With limited internet access in the high mountains, we'll do our best to get timely posts up, but don't be alarmed if TIS goes dark for a couple days.  


Day 1 - Made It To Lima...Let's Eat!

I know it's been less than 24hrs, but I may have found my favorite South American food city. I landed in the capital city of Lima at 7am on Sunday morning and was quickly able to find a local coffee shop...

Alright, it's not local, but at least it has a Peruvian color pallet.


I made it to my friend Jeremy's apartment in an affluent area called Districto de Barranco or just Barranco for short. The rest of the group - Greg, Jeremy, Jen, and Pam (Jeremy's girlfriend) - were fast asleep since they were out until 5am the night before. So for the morning and, likely the early afternoon, I was on my own to explore Barranco. Jeremy's place is right on the cliffs overlooking the ocean so there were plenty of spectacular views to take in when walking around the neighborhood.

The view from Jeremy's apartment in Barranco.

La Ermita church in Barranco; the back side of the church had a beautiful panoramic ocean view.

You know it's a beach town when they've got vintage VW vans.


After a bit of morning exploring, I made my way back to the apartment to check on the rest of the crew. They were finally up and about getting ready for a late lunch, which in Peru means 4pm. Basically the routine around these parts, at least for those on vacation, is lunch around 4pm, dinner around 10pm, drinks at midnight, club at 2am, head home around 5am, sleep until 2ish, wake up and do it all over again.

Once everyone was showered up and ready to start their day, we headed to grab a bite. Let the eating begin.

Rafael Osterling is one of Peru's most notable and successful chefs and restaurateurs, so what better way to start the Peruvian feasts than by hitting up Mercado, Osterling's three-year-old cevicheria and seafood joint located in a fun, commercial hub called Miraflores.  The menu was stacked with everything from parmesan scallops, grilled octopus, and BBQ crayfish to garlic butter lobster, tuna sliders, lemon sole, and of course a wide assortment of ceviche, Peru's national dish.

Jen, Pam, Greg and Matt at Mercado in the Miraflores part of town.

Grilled squid in parsley aiolli with native potatoes and mushrooms.

Baked scallops in parmesan.

A seafood medley of crayfish and scallops in a delicious Asian bbq sauce.


After an amazing feast at Mercado, we drove to take in the sunset at the Miraflores bluffs that overlooked the Pacific. It was overcast most of the day, but the skies cleared up just in time for the sun to set.

Greg's Peruvian Sunset Dance

We weren't the only sunset spectators on the Miraflores bluffs.

We decided to do a quick drive-by tour of the main plazas in the city center including the Plaza San Martin, which was built in 1921 to commemorate the 100-year anniversary of Peru's independence.

Plaza San Martin was surrounded by beautiful colonial style architecture.



As if we hadn't had enough seafood at lunch, we opted for a casual sushi dinner at Makoto Sushi Bar.  This also was in Miraflores, but it was on the second floor of a mall.  Don't let that fool you because this place had amazingly fresh and delicious seafood across the board. After only two meals in Lima, there is no doubt that seafood dominates this city - no wonder it's the second largest fishing nation in the world (behind China).

The group at Makoto Sushi Bar.

Greg and Matt capped the night off with a bit of gambling at the Atlantic City Hotel & Casino...yep they have gambling also...this city is really making a great first impression.


The plan for Day 2 is to explore a bit more of Lima's city center and definitely more delicious seafood.


Sunday, October 20, 2013

Departure Day - NYC to Lima, Only 7hr Flight

Some people hate the airport. The crowds, the lines, the baggage, the strip searches...I get it, but I disagree.  I love it all!  I enjoy it cause of what it represents, cause of what happens after all that non-sense...TRAVEL!

It feels great to be getting out of the country again. Being at the international terminal with just a carry-on and a backpack is really liberating...I guess that's the travel bug high. The sense that the world is a massive playground and you get to run around and enjoy it all. Ultimate freedom.

Lima is only a seven hour flight from NYC. That's pretty close considering it's a different continent in a different hemisphere. My flight takes off at midnight ET and I land at 7am in Lima (Peru is the same time zone as central time, so an hr behind NY and two hrs ahead of LA).

Peru is the third largest country in South America and shares borders with Colombia and Ecuador to the north, Brazil and Bolivia to the east, and Chile to the south.  Nearly 8 million people live in the capital city of Lima, easily making it the largest city in the country.  The Amazon occupies more than half of Peru's territory and provides an abundance of resources such as food, materials, and energy to the rest of the country.  

You can pretty much draw a straight line south from New York on the east coast of the U.S. to Lima, Peru on the west coast of South America


As I do when I kick off most of the Travel In Sandals trips, I like to share this Louis Vutton commercial which talks about traveling, journeys, etc.  I definitely enjoy the words, but the imagery and the music is what gets me every time. Check it out HERE

Sunday is our first full day in Lima.  No specific plans just yet, but with Peru being the world's second largest fishing nation after China, I expect to chow down on some tasty seafood, ceviche, sushi and more.  Hasta manana.



Thursday, October 17, 2013

Travel In Sandals Returns - 2013 Destination: Peru

Hello everyone!  And by everyone I mean all six people who actually read this.  It's been one year - almost to the day - since the last Travel In Sandals post and we are back for the 2013 edition.  This year's adventure is a 10-day jaunt to the beautiful coastal country of Peru. This South American culinary epicenter has been on the TO DO list for awhile because we have a friend who lives and works in the capital city of Lima.  We finally sorted out our various schedules and we hit the road Oct 19-29.


Do to a few weddings and a birth since the last trip, this year's Travel in Sandals contingent has been reduced to two bachelors.  Greg and I, the perpetually single duo, are the only protagonists this go around.  However, Jeremy Bliss, our local Lima friend, and his sister Jen are honorary members of this year's TIS crew. 


Another adjustment for this year's travels is we'll be coming from different parts of the country and meeting in Peru.  I'm flying from NYC and Greg is flying from LA and we'll link up on the ground. 


Here's our itinerary for Peru 2013:
- Oct 16: Greg flies LA to Lima
- Oct 17-19: Greg arrives in Lima, links up with Jeremy and Jen, explore the town
- Oct 19: Matt flies NYC to Lima
- Oct 20: Matt meets up withe the group
- Oct 21: More exploring of Lima
- Oct 22: Fly to Cusco - about 1.5 hr from Lima - explore Cusco
- Oct 23: Tour the Sacred Valley and Cusco Market
- Oct 24: All day at Machu Picchu
- Oct 25: Train back to Cusco, night in Cusco
- Oct 26: Fly back to Lima
- Oct 27: All day in Lima
- Oct 28: All day in Lima
- Oct 29: Fly Lima back to NYC